My Trans-Siberian Adventure: Trying to See It All in Russia

During my first two and a half weeks riding the rails across Asia, I experienced the unexpected sides of China & Mongolia and the charming beauty of Siberia. On the way, my tour passed many more places where I would have liked to stop and look around. Sadly, unless you have an unlimited budget of time and money, there is no way to see everything. On Day 17, we spent most of the time on the train as we crossed the Ural Mountains into Europe heading towards Moscow. I looked forward to my final week exploring a different part of Russia and spent time making grand plans for taking in as much as possible each precious day. The following week would remind me repeatedly that the right way to travel is to keep yourself open to opportunities as they come along.

Part 3: Moscow, Suzdal, Novgorod, and St. Petersburg

Day 18: Men with Guns and Heroic Dogs

A scheduled free day gave me the perfect opportunity to see whatever my heart desired in Russia’s capital. Looking for something out of the ordinary, my sights were set on the Museum of Soviet Arcade Machines. Like the space race, the Soviets didn’t want to lose the video game race either. While America was falling in love with Pong and Pac-Man, Russian children had their own brand of State-sponsored electronic fun. The museum sounded like something different to see. Sadly, I wasn’t able to. It’s located in a large Expo Hall, which was hosting a conference sponsored by the Ministry of Agriculture. Judging by the men with machine guns standing behind a barrier by the entrance, important people were in attendance. I gazed wistfully at the door. The men with guns gave me hard stares in return. I got the message the museum was closed, turned around, and walked away.

Fortunately, the Museum of Cosmonautics was not far away, so I changed my plans on the fly. It’s not possible to miss the place due to the distinctive design incorporating a rocket blasting off. Inside is a fascinating history of the Russian side of the space race, including more info than I ever thought possible about Sputnik and Yuri Gagarin. My favorite part of the museum, though, was an exhibit about the first two living creatures to safely return from space: canine cosmonauts Belka and Strelka. They have been preserved and are on display along with a doggie return capsule. So cool.

That afternoon, I took a walking tour through several of Moscow’s famous metro stops with some other members of our group. Stalin wanted the world to know that the Soviet metro was the best in the world. Judging by the art in these stations, he may have been right. We visited eight stations in all. I liked the statues depicting the ordinary heroism of the Russian people at the Revolution Square station. Students started the tradition of rubbing the dog’s nose on the statue below for luck before exams. Just about everyone who walks by does it now. Another highlight was Komsomolskaya station with its tiled mosaics and Palace of Versailles vibe.

That night, the group walked down to see Red Square, where seeing the iconic St. Basil’s Cathedral lit up was the number one sight on my overly long list. Sadly, the gates were locked. Our tour leader said this sometimes happens, and there’s no way of knowing when the authorities will do so. I was disappointed, but at least there wasn’t anyone with a machine gun staring back at us. I would have to try my luck another day.

Day 19: Churches and Stuffing My Face

Early in the morning, our group left bustling Moscow for an overnight trip to sleepy Suzdal, a small town about four hours away. Once a significant trading and cultural center, Suzdal did not allow the Trans-Siberian railroad to go through town in the 19th century. The modern world all but passed the place by. This quirk of history turned into a blessing. Suzdal is now a major tourist attraction due to the abundance of historically significant buildings that survive. In Russia, this means churches. And lots of them.

According to our guide, Suzdal was home to over 60 churches at the start of the Communist Revolution. Nearly half of these were destroyed or converted to other uses over the years by the officially atheistic State. During our time in Russia, we learned of churches that were converted to swimming pools, sports clubs, movie theaters, and youth centers by the Communists. Those were the lucky ones. Many others were simply torn down. Fortunately, in Suzdal, over 30 church buildings remain. They are all in various states of repair. The church restoration business in Russia must be doing very well. One of the main churches in town had a rickety-looking bell tower that a few intrepid travelers and I decided to climb.

The tremendous views were well worth the effort, providing an all-encompassing look around the area. How many churches can you spot in the picture below?

Suzdal turned out to be more than a feast for the eyes. My taste buds enjoyed the visit too. I finally had a chance to try real Russian borscht at a local restaurant. It hit the spot on the chilly and damp day. We also went to another establishment specializing in mead. Their 10-cup sampling was a thorough introduction to various flavors the brewers have dreamed up. The honey and mint variations were tasty. Maybe because it was the last cup on my tray and alcohol was impairing my judgment, but the horseradish flavor may have been my favorite.

That night we had dinner at a local residence where an excellent cook named Elena made a feast for us. I was too busy stuffing my face to take any pictures. It’s a good thing that we had a long walk back to our guesthouse. I had more than a few calories to burn.

Day 20: Churches and Pepsi

Our morning in Suzdal included a walking tour that took us (surprise, surprise!) by more churches. We started at the local monastery, which featured lush grounds and many magnificent buildings. One featured a tower with over twenty bells where a talented musician treated us to a five-minute concert by doing nothing but pulling ropes. It was unbelievably impressive.

The monastery’s main cathedral was remarkable, and unlike many older churches in the area, they allowed photos inside. Understandably, the authorities are leery about travelers taking pictures with a flash because interiors of Russian Orthodox churches are an array of colors. Every possible inch of wall is covered by artwork, depicting familiar figures and fables. Back when the population was mostly illiterate, these paintings were how ordinary people learned Bible stories. From what I saw, a picture really is worth a thousand words, even in Russian.

I feel like I’ve been giving Suzdal a bum rap by focusing mainly on its churches. The old architecture around town is also striking, and the reason why Russian film crews often use the location to make historical movies. We visited a site built to represent what an older village would have looked like centuries ago. The wooden buildings provided an interesting lesson in how most Russians used to live and many more great photo opportunities, too.

In the afternoon, we took a bullet train back to Moscow. I tried ordering a Coke from the attendant, but they only had Pepsi. Turns out that in the Moscow-St. Petersburg area, most places only serve America’s number two soft drink. My bottle celebrated the fact that this is the 60th anniversary of Pepsi in the country. I was reminded of the great Billy Wilder movie “One, Two, Three” about a Coca-Cola salesman in Berlin at the height of the cold war. (Shameless plug: Check out my list of Top Ten Billy Wilder Movies.) Hats off to whoever at PepsiCo was able to penetrate the Iron Curtain in 1959.

My only goal when we arrived back in Moscow that evening was to make a beeline for Red Square. It was my last chance to see St. Basil’s at night. About half my tour group went along on the expedition. This time, the gates were not locked, and the place was a beehive of activity with a fall festival going on. Tourists and locals mingled around the Square, listening to bands or eating at food trucks. I ignored all of that and made straight for the majestic cathedral. Seeing it lit up was as spectacular as I hoped. I went to bed a very happy boy.

Day 21: Lenin, the Kremlin, Crap, a Church and a Cab Ride

There is so much do in Moscow that it can be a bit overwhelming. Fortunately, our tour group had a local guide to help us see as much as possible in a few short hours. We started at Lenin’s tomb, where the former leader of the Soviet revolution has supposedly resided since his death in 1924. Visitors are allowed to take a quick walk through his mausoleum. I have no way of knowing if the body on display is for sure his mortal remains. I suspect it’s a wax figure, but either way, it was a unique experience.

We also walked by the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier outside of the Kremlin. It’s a somber monument to the Russian troops who died during World War II. The guards must stand at attention for an hour without moving. I cannot imagine how they do it.

More military pageantry awaited inside the Kremlin, along with enough Chinese tourists to populate at least half of Beijing. They were lined up with their cameras for the regular Saturday military parade. (To be fair, I was too!)

Of course, there was another magnificent cathedral inside the Kremlin along with a museum filled with dresses, horse-drawn carriages, medieval weapons, Fabergé Eggs, and all other bits and pieces of Russian history. Sadly, no photos were allowed inside any of the buildings.

Directly across from Lenin’s tomb and the Kremlin is the GUM department store. The building has been a place of trade since the 19th century. It’s now the grandest monument to capitalism I have ever seen. Think of a high-end fashion or jewelry brand, and it’s likely they have a store inside the colossal mall. One designer brand was selling bags marked with the logo “I Love Crap.” I wonder what Lenin must think of it all as he lies close by in what must be a very fitful eternal sleep.

After my time visiting a place of worship to the god of consumerism, I decided to balance scales by going inside St. Basil’s Cathedral. The artwork inside is as fantastic as the architecture. The hefty cover charge to get in at least meant photos were allowed. You have to remember to look up to see everything. In one chapel, the face of Jesus stares back at you. I understand that Russian Orthodox services would often take hours. I can see how the Lord staring you down would be an incentive to stay awake.

That night, my tour was slated to take an overnight train. A group of us were lucky to ride to the station in the best taxi in Moscow. Our driver was an extremely enthusiastic young Pakistani man whose favorite word was “Super!” One of our travelers was from New Zealand, and he thought that was just about the coolest thing in the world. Everyone else also drew a “Super” except another of the group from Chicago. She got a “Gangster!” It was a hell of a fun ride and the perfect way to end our time in Russia’s largest city.

Day 22: Churches and Statues

Our last night on a train ended in Veliky Novgorod, usually referred to as just Novgorod, a smallish city of around 220,000 people. Since I was able to get internet service on my phone, someone asked me what the weather was as we pulled in. I told them, “Partly cloudy with a 100% chance of churches.” Turns out I was right on both counts.

Novgorod has a dizzying array of churches, but there’s more behind them than just worship. In the middle ages, the leaders of the Russian Orthodox Church were the ultimate authorities in the region. They decreed that only churches could be built with stone. Everything else had to be wood, which meant that fires were rampant, and marketplaces often burned to the ground. To get around this problem, merchants would build a place of worship, but restrict the sanctuary to only a small part of the space, often a tiny second floor. They then used the rest of the building for commerce.

Some of the churches in town are mind-bogglingly old. We visited the larger church below, built in the late 17th century. The inside was under renovation, with experts working hard to preserve the artistry inside. Pictures were allowed!

The oldest church in town was from 1374. Visitors are not allowed inside when it rains as there are worries about water causing roof damage that might come crashing down. One of my friends from the tour and I waited out a downpour long enough to get a look inside. No photos were allowed again, but it was an extraordinary experience to see the over 600-year-old frescos on the walls.

Much like Suzdal, Novgorod is more than just churches. Some of my favorite statues from the trip were also in town. I quite liked this one by the river called “The Tourist.” In contrast to the more serious sights, the touch of whimsy was refreshing.

There was also the requisite Lenin statue, though surprisingly not by the train station. It gave me a chance to do another statue reenactment. I think my Lenin might still need a little work.

The highlight of Novgorod was the Millennium Monument. Erected in 1862 to celebrate the 1,000th anniversary of the country, 127 significant figures from Russian history adorn the monument. The amount of detail is stunning. America could use one of these!

At the outset of the trip, I was somewhat annoyed by the itinerary including side trips to places like Suzdal and Novgorod. These stops took time away from seeing bucket list items in the bigger cities. However, I happily came to see things differently.  One of the main themes of my tour is that Russia is so much more than just Moscow and St. Petersburg. Visiting smaller towns provided a great deal of variety and helped me better understand the country in a much deeper way.

Day 23: Where I Prove I Am Cultured

As we rolled into St. Petersburg, I had a chance to reflect on what an epic journey it had been. We kept a map charting our path from Mongolia through Russia. The distance covered is staggering.

I do have a small confession to make. We didn’t actually take the train all the way. The last little bit from Novgorod was on a private bus. I may go back one day and make that final short train ride just to make my rail trip official. There’s no doubt I need to return anyway to get to everything I didn’t have a chance to see. Travelling is all about making choices. I’m happy with the ones I made in St. Petersburg, though the decisions weren’t always easy.

My first day in the city was all about culture, but it started with trying to throw a coin at a cat statue. This little guy was about twelve feet off the ground. The legend states that anyone lucky enough to land one on the ledge around the cat will have a wish they make granted. I succeeded on try number six. My wish hasn’t come true yet, so maybe you have to hit it the first time.

The best-known museum in St. Petersburg is The Hermitage. Since we arrived in the early afternoon, there wasn’t enough time to visit. Of course, there were several churches to see, but I was kind of churched out by this point. In the mood for some art, the State Russian Museum seemed like a good choice.

The museum features a sweeping overview of art throughout the history of the country. Much of it was dark or stark, probably not a surprise given Russia’s history. Maybe that’s why this painting, titled “Shrovetide” by Boris Kustodiev, was my favorite. I love how the color seemed to pop with energy reflecting this enticing winter scene.

There were also some interesting and priceless artifacts from the Soviet era. I was surprised by how many tea sets there were depicting laborers to glorify the working class. Their beautiful delicacy left an indelible impression. A painting of Stalin addressing an adoring crowd at the 25th anniversary gala for the October Revolution showed another side of the Soviets. The event in question never happened as it was canceled because of security concerns. That did not stop painter Alexander Gerasimov from depicting the scene as if it really took place in his work entitled “Hymn of October.” Unsurprisingly, Gerasimov won a prize from Comrade Stalin for helping to contribute to the leader’s cult of personality.

After enjoying the art, my next stop was the Mariinsky Theater to see “The Nutcracker.” The theater itself was worth the somewhat high price of admission. Sitting in that glorious setting and thinking about all performances that have played there over the years, I felt more connected to the city and culture. I am not an expert by any stretch, but the ballet was also excellent.

One of my fellow travelers and I were inspired to strike a pose by the end of the evening.

Day 24: Calling an Audible

The day we arrived in St. Petersburg was wet, rainy, and cold. The next day was gloriously sunny and dry. Being October, it was chilly, but not bitterly cold. The city’s residents were out in force, enjoying what may have been the most beautiful day until next spring.

The Hermitage Museum was calling my name, letting me know that no visit to the city was complete without going there. If I wanted to see it in full, I needed to be there when it opened and spend most of the day. However, our tour leader lived in St. Petersburg and offered to take us on a walking tour around town.  Given the weather, a full day indoors just didn’t make sense, so I called an audible chose to take his walk.

The views around the city were grand. We walked by churches (naturally), government buildings, the place where beef stroganoff was invented, the original home of Fabergé jewelry, another park aflame with the colors of the season, a statue of Peter the Great, and the canals that are the reason why St. Petersburg is called Russia’s Amsterdam. It was a great way to spend the morning.

I could have tried to squeeze in a little bit of the Hermitage in the afternoon, but a couple of folks in the group were heading to a giant flea market north of town. That seemed like a much better way to spend the rest of the day. The Udelnaya Flea Market is one of the largest in the country and a great place to find memorabilia from the Soviet Era. I was able to buy several gifts and a few things for myself as well, including this cool pin commemorating the 1975 mission, where an American Apollo space module docked with a Soviet Soyuz capsule. Thankfully, one of my traveling companions spoke Russian and could help with price negotiations. What the merchants were asking was usually so reasonable that I mostly just paid to what they wanted.

So, sadly, I never made it to The Hermitage during my time in St. Petersburg, but that gives me an excellent excuse to go back. I’m thinking about seeing it in the winter when the river is frozen, and the city might just be a wonderland. When a place leaves you with a strong desire to return, you know it’s been a great visit.

As the sun set over the city and on my Trans-Siberian adventure, I reflected on how lucky I was to be able to take such a remarkable trip. I wouldn’t have thought it possible before I left home, but my overwhelming feeling after twenty-four days was that I wished my journey could have lasted a little bit longer. My overriding advice after three-plus weeks on the road is that if circumstances give you the chance to travel on the Trans-Siberian railroad or go on some other epic vacation you have dreamed about, ignore your doubts, overcome your fears, and make the journey.

Notes

Other than my first two days in Beijing, my trip was almost entirely organized by Intrepid Travel. They offer tours to just about anywhere in the world you can think of and specialize in small groups with more adventurous itineraries. If your idea of a great vacation is spending time in a luxury hotel isolated from the rest of the country you are visiting, they are not the group for you. However, if you’re interested in immersing yourself in local cultures, I highly recommend them. Check out their website at https://www.intrepidtravel.com.

I used Intrepid’s partner company Urban Adventures to arrange my tours in Beijing. They offer small one day tours in cities all around the world. Look them up at https://www.urbanadventures.com/.

If you plan to travel to China and Russia, be aware that citizens of most countries need a Visa. The process to apply for these is complicated and should be started well in advance of your departure. I used Union Visa, a Tampa Bay-based company, to help me out. Mongolia does not require Americans staying less than 90 days to have a Visa, but citizens of the UK, Australia, and New Zealand need one.