Pieces of Portland

The week before I was scheduled to fly to Portland, a riot took place in the city center. Some extreme nut cases on one side of the political spectrum decided to confront some hardcore juicebags from the other. I never really considered canceling my trip, but it did make me wonder what I would find. Thankfully, as suspected, my visit was riot free. It was also delightful. Portland is not a perfect place, but what city is? I left with great memories of fantastic scenery, some beautiful photographs, the lingering taste of a giant donut, and a deeper understanding of a somewhere new.

An Outdoor Playground

My first day in Portland, I took a guided tour to the Columbia River Gorge and the base of Mount Hood. Our tour leader repeatedly mentioned that Portlanders love being outdoors. A few hours taking in the sights is all you need to understand why. The beauty is overwhelming. Our excursion took us to three waterfalls during a whirlwind of a morning. Multnomah Falls is the most iconic, which means it’s also the most popular and crowded. It’s definitely worth a stop, but try to get there early to avoid the rush of selfie seekers.

For my $120 (the cost of the tour from Wildwood Adventures), Latourell Falls is a better experience. It’s a smaller spectacle that fewer people stop at but still awe-inspiring. I was not able to make the complete 2-mile hiking loop due to the time constraints of my tour, but when I get there again, I plan to hike it all so I can see the top of the falls.

Oregon is also an agricultural wonderland. I was lucky to visit during cherry season. Seeing these red beauties growing on the vine was almost as good as sampling them. The area around Portland features many small farms filled with character and charm.

Of course, the focal point of outdoor Portland is Mount Hood. This 11,250 foot dormant (for now) volcano stands like a sentry over the entire area. It can be fickle. The day of my tour, the mountain blanketed itself with clouds, and only the base was visible even up close. Even when our group reached the famous Timberline Lodge, I could only see slightly past the glacier that is the one place in the lower 48 where July skiing is possible.

Fortunately, the next day was brilliantly clear, and I couldn’t stop staring at the mountain some sixty miles in the distance as I made my way around town.

Getting Around

There are many ways to get around Portland. My favorite was probably the tram that takes workers from the lower part of the city to the Oregon Health and Science Center buildings on the hilltop above. One hospital employee I spoke to said she makes it a point not to look at her phone during the ride up the tram so she can appreciate the beauty of her commute. I don’t blame her. A round trip ticket up and back on the tram for people who don’t work there costs $5.10. I didn’t tell them the views are worth much more than that.

Portland also has a very efficient light rail system. I was able to catch a train at the airport and take it to within walking distance of my hotel for just $2.50. I can only dream about the day this will be possible here in Tampa.

The transit system also features streetcars around downtown and buses for the places that rails won’t get you. A one-day pass to use the entire Tri-Met network is only $5.00. That’s an incredible bargain. Unfortunately, it’s not helping Portland’s traffic problem. So many people are moving to their metro area that the roads can’t handle it. My second day, I bought a ticket for the hop-on, hop-off-tour and the last two trolleys of the day were delayed by ninety minutes due to congestion. Needless to say, I was very happy with my decision not to rent a car.

Roses, Gardens, and Parks

During World War I, the good citizens of England were worried about their roses. Since Portland had a similar climate conducive for the flower’s growth, they sent samples to the city’s nurseries. This gift led to the creation of the International Rose Test Garden, which is a free to explore explosion of color in Washington Park. A visit here is a must.

An Explosion of Color

Next door to the Rose Garden is Portland’s Japanese Garden. It’s not free, but the $18 ticket was still worth the price to experience a sense of tranquility deep within the heart of a bustling metropolis.

Portland also features many parks all over downtown. These are oases of trees between the asphalt and concrete. My favorite was Mill Ends Park, which sits in the middle of a crosswalk on a busy street. Billed as the smallest park in the world, Portland’s sense of humor is fully on display.

Books, Donuts, and Real Estate

No trip to Portland would be complete without a visit to Powell’s Books. There were many tourists like me waiting to take a shot of the famous corner entrance. I would have had to stand there for hours to get something without any traffic in it. Spending time inside made more sense. I was in the store for about an hour. I could have explored all day.

The other Portland staple I had to try was Voodoo Donuts. I’m happy to say it did not disappoint. While I could have gone for the donut covered with two slices of bacon or the one topped with Fruit Loops, the Simpson’s fan in me had no choice but to try The Homer. The dude behind the counter said that was the right choice because I was a mustache away from looking like Ned Flanders. I decided to take that as a compliment!

One of my favorite things to do in any city is just to wander around. In Portland, it’s clear that real estate is at a premium. Apartments and condos are springing up everywhere. Some are beautiful with panoramic views. Others appear unreal, jammed into unexpected nooks and crannies. All are expensive. A 1,000 square foot condo across from my hotel was going for around $500,000 on average.

Final Thoughts

A write-up about any trip to Portland sadly has to mention the homeless problem. There seemed to be more homeless per capita than in any American city I have visited. I asked several people about the situation. Some Portlanders thought that the high cost of real estate was to blame. With so many people moving in, rents have priced many out of the market. Others thought climate was more of the cause. Being so close to the Pacific Ocean, Portland doesn’t get too cold in the winter. The temperate environment is more inviting for those forced to live outside than other places in the northwest. No matter the cause, everyone agreed homelessness was a major concern.

In this and many respects, Portland seems like a microcosm of America. It’s a beautiful and vibrant place filled with many interesting and fun things to do. The citizens are generous, welcoming, and willing to strike up a conversation with a stranger. While the government has implemented many creative solutions, traffic is still a nightmare. The American Dream is on full display but remains out of reach for some.

Thinking back on the riot that happened before I arrived, I remembered some talking head on local Tampa radio recently complaining about the liberal wackos in the northwest. That kind of thinking makes me sad. (Same as when I hear similar pundits on the other side of the spectrum talk down about all the rednecks supposedly populating the entire south.) One of the noblest purposes of travel is that it helps us understand not only other places but ourselves as well. My visit to Portland succeeded on both counts.

And that donut was damn good.